Fast Fashion and Textile Waste in India: The Case for Regulatory Intervention
- Anushka Bansal
- Jul 24
- 6 min read
The textile and apparel industry, although a major contributor to global trade, is now becoming one of the most polluting industries worldwide. The rise of fast fashion, characterised by high consumption of low-cost, low-quality clothing, has aggravated the sector’s environmental footprint. Globally, around 92 million tonnes of textile waste end up in landfills annually, resulting in the leaching of harmful materials and leaking of valuable resources from the value chain. Alarmingly, only 12%–15% of this waste goes to recycling facilities, of which only 1% is recycled into new clothing.
The textile and apparel industry is a vital sector of the Indian economy, contributing 2.3% of the gross domestic product (GDP), 13% of industrial production, and 12% of exports. But this also means that the quantities of textile waste generated and needed to be managed in the country are massive: approximately 7.8 million tonnes or 8.5% of global textile waste is accumulated in India every year. India is also among the top three countries in the world in textile waste generation.
Textile Waste in India: The Current Scenario
The growing availability of fast fashion in India has quickly led to an increase in the consumption of resources and waste. Due to this, the textile and apparel industry generates a significant amount of waste annually in India, most of which is currently disposed of as municipal solid waste (MSW). This industry is responsible for the third-largest waste stream in the dry fraction of MSW, after plastics (Down to Earth, n.d.). India is estimated to generate approximately 7,800 kilotonnes of textile waste annually, equivalent to about 5 kg of waste generated per person (Fashion for Good, 2022). The result is overflowing landfills with non-biodegradable fabrics straining waste management systems, unsafe working conditions for workers in the informal sector, and the exploitation of cheap labor in garment manufacturing.
Textile waste can be classified into three types:
Pre-consumer waste (42%): Waste generated during the manufacturing process, such as fabric scraps, yarn trimmings, and cutting waste (Fashion for Good, 2022)
Post-consumer waste (51%): Waste from textiles that have been used and disposed of by consumers (Fashion for Good, 2022) e.g. garments discarded after use—whether worn out, outgrown, or simply unwanted
Imported waste (7%): Discarded waste entering a country from other regions, including mutilated rags and second-hand clothing
A majority of this waste ends up in two major textile clusters of India: Panipat in northern India and Tirupur in southern India. Panipat has become a global destination for recycling rejected clothing, and the Tirupur–Coimbatore–Erode belt specialises in cotton-rich textile waste recycling.
At present, 59% of India’s textile waste re-enters the industry through reuse, upcycling, or recycling. However, only 25% is recycled into yarn, with quality issues often preventing it from re-entering the global supply chain. The remaining 41% of waste is downcycled (19%), incinerated (5%), or landfilled (17%).
Important Laws promoting Sustainable Fashion and Textile Waste Reduction in India
India has a number of regulatory frameworks related to waste management, pollution control, and ethical manufacturing to help promote sustainability and waste reduction in the fashion sector. Some of them are listed below.
Environment Protection Act (EPA), 1986
The Environment Protection Act (EPA), 1986, forms the basis for Indian environmental laws. This broad legislation sets a standard for pollution control in relation to the operation of textile manufacturing plants and establishes waste management and resource conservation. Factories are required to bring in sustainable practices to mitigate their negative environmental impact – waste management and processes to make dyeing and finishing less harmful or more sustainable.
National Action Plan on Climate Change (NAPCC)
India’s commitment to sustainable fashion is further reinforced by its National Action Plan on Climate Change (NAPCC), which consolidates various efforts for improvement in energy efficiency, resource conservation, and waste management in the textile industry. The National Solar Mission fosters solar-powered textile factories, reducing reliance on fossil-fuel-based energy sources. Similarly, the National Mission for Enhanced Energy Efficiency encourages the utilization of energy-efficient technologies during textile manufacturing, diminishing the overall carbon footprint of the industry. Water conservation is another area of emphasis within the work areas of NAPCC.
Textile manufacturers are mandated, through the National Water Mission, to process and recycle their wastewater, rather than polluting and depleting fresh water resources, allowing manufacturers to comply with Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) regulations.
The Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) plays a crucial role in regulating eco-friendly textiles by introducing certification standards that ensure compliance with sustainability norms. The ISO 14024 certification sets out certain criteria for textile products, such as using less water, using organic materials, and using fewer chemical treatments. The certification provides consumers the confidence that the product they are purchasing complies with environmentally friendly apparel production practices.
The Way Forward
Policy mechanisms in India presenting sustainability efforts encourage economic growth to be pursued concurrently with sustainability. However, the long-term sustainability of the apparel and textile industry would be dependent upon the imperative objectives of compliance and enforcement by industry.
The current practices, while partially effective, are insufficient to address the scale of the problem. Without significant improvements in collection systems, technological infrastructure, and regulatory frameworks, the industry will struggle to manage its waste sustainably. Given these challenges, there is a clear and pressing need for a more structured and comprehensive approach to waste management in India’s textile industry.
Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR)
To this end, the introduction of a comprehensive Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) framework, based on circular economy principles, presents a viable path forward to create a more sustainable and accountable textile waste management system in India.
The Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) regime, implemented under the Plastic Waste Management Rules, 2016, safeguards sustainability in the fashion industry as well. This policy holds producers, importers, and brand owners responsible for managing the waste of their plastic packaging.
With textile waste becoming an increasingly larger proportion of synthetic fibers in textiles, if the EPR model were enlarged to include applications for textile waste, businesses would be required to take responsibility for that product for its entire lifetime. This would advance models of circular economy, where textile waste is reused (e.g., thrifted, donated etc.) and recycled.
The 2016 Solid Waste Management Rules, which complement the laws about plastic waste, also promote sustainable fashion and reduced textile waste. These rules include requirements for recycling textile waste, proper disposal, and the segregation of waste. Under an EPR structure, manufacturers will soon be made responsible for textile waste and will be part of waste management programs. Local governments will need to set up local recycling facilities to promote the upcycling of fabric and waste-to-energy programs.
No untreated textile waste can be disposed of, and such waste must be properly treated and recycled. Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) rules will also require textile manufacturers to treat wastewater and not just release wastewater into natural waterways.
Manufacturers are incentivized to adopt more ecologically sound production methods because of the ramifications of failing to comply. Future amendments to the rules on Solid Waste Management may include additional regulation.
Conclusion
Textile waste management in India requires urgent attention as the country continues to grow as a major textile producer. The growing demand of fast fashion, absence of clear regulations, coupled with high recycling costs and technological barriers, makes managing textile waste a challenge. However, by adopting global best practices, such as Extended Producer Responsibility, promoting natural fibers, and encouraging innovation in recycling technologies, India can address this issue more effectively.
By raising awareness and engaging various stakeholders, including manufacturers, designers, recyclers, and consumers, India can make strides toward a sustainable future in textile waste management. Adopting eco-friendly production methods, reducing synthetic fiber use, and shifting consumer behavior towards sustainable fashion will conserve resources and protect health. Ultimately, the development of a comprehensive framework for regulating fast fashion and textile waste will help reduce landfill waste, curb pollution, and support the country's broader environmental sustainability goals.
References
1. Prabhu, S. (2024, October 16). Regulations needed for Textile Waste Management in India. https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/regulations-needed-textile-waste-management-india-sowmya-prabhu-9hdwf/
2. Chatterjee, P. (2025, April 10). Legal measures for sustainability and textile waste reduction in India. King Stubb & Kasiva. https://ksandk.com/energy/fashion-legal-textile-waste-reduction-india/
3. Rahman, A. P., Rahman, A. P., & Indiaspend. (2024, November 23). Textile waste a growing environmental concern. Indiaspend. https://www.indiaspend.com/industry/textile-waste-a-growing-environmental-concern-932145
4. Taneja, A., Garg, K., Verma, P., Center for Study of Science, Technology and Policy (CSTEP), Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH, & Kshirsagar, M. (2025). India’s textile and apparel sector: Understanding the ecosystem and readiness for implementation of extended producer responsibility (CSTEP & S. Chatterjee, Eds.). https://cstep.in/drupal/sites/default/files/2025-01/India%E2%80%99s%20textile%20and%20Apparel%20Sector_Understanding%20the%20Ecosystem%20and%20Readiness%20for%20Implementation%20of%20Extended%20Producer%20Responsibility.pdf